Heads...which ones?

Okay, I've been watching for a set of nice GT40p's at a reasonable price to put on my 302 but have recently been researching using the 351C 2V heads. This got me to thinking...what heads are best for the street?

Here are my constraints :

1) Budget of course! Can't afford aftermarket aluminum so I'm looking for factory iron.
2) Want to stay away form tearing down the motor (i.e. wanna keep my stock pistons). It was rebuilt to stock specs two years ago and it's still nice and tight (maybe 3000 miles on it).
3) Wanna keep my Edelbrock performer intake.
4) Willing to swap to a new cam.

Looking t make 350 to 400 hp.

I have to admit I'm new to Windsors. Always had FE's before this so I'm still trying to wrangle out the heads for the small block.

Any insight is greatly appreciated!

Don

gt40p's FTW .hands down no discussion. i ive used them too and i know they are just about the best iron heads you can get.

dont forget that you will need matching headers. mac makes a set for cheap though

Clevelands are a canted valve engine, so you would need custom pistons to use them on an inline valve Windsor engine. It's an involved swap, requiring an expensive custom intake manifold, among other things, and nets you a high RPM engine that feels really sloshy down low on a 302 - best to use those with a stroker small block - but that's more bucks.

GT40Ps are a good budget head, as close as your nearest junkyard '98 or newer Explorer, and make good power and torque on a 302. Be sure to get aftermarket P-specific headers for a Fox Mustang, because the spark plugs on the P heads go in at a different angle so regular 5.0 headers will not work.

-Mike S.

So, as you may or may not know, I got some P heads for christmas. I was talking to a buddy with a Mustang about them, and he suggested that I check a forum in which guys were trying to make 300rwhp with P heads. It sounds like some of them did. Some of them had a little bit of port work done, most used shorty headers, and most had less cam than I'll be running.

It makes me shudder to think of what kind of power I'll be making with my setup, since my engine's already balanced, has a windage tray, and is decked to the point that the pistons stick out of the block a little. Also, I'll be using a COMP HP270XE (or XE270HP, I can never remember), and the heads, while they have the stock ports, have been shaved a little, and have big vavles. It looks like I'll be using long tube headers, too, which are supposed to be worth another 15 ft-lbs on P heads. I might end up somewhere a little north of 300 at the wheels.

Another friend was telling me that a 300rwhp car should be running E.T.s of somewhere in the mid 12s, and trapping at about 113 or so. I guess my "14.2/98" troubles will be over. I must admit, if this works out as advertised, it sure will be nice to run with LS1s.

Later,
Mike.

the most ive ever seen out of a 302 with gt40p's is 297RWHP in a t5 tranny. but you would be weighing alot less than him so yeah 12's should be a problem.

What are the going prices on GT40p's used ?

in dallas i can pick up a pair for 300 but then you need to get them checked out by a machine shop.


i would just get some cheap regular gt40's, have them mildly ported and cleaned up and then save my cash for some aluminum heads, you can get a pair for about 700 now.


but if you find a good deal on the p's and matching headers, go for it.

Used p's are going for around $400 rebuilt. They've been hot tanked, pressure tested, single grind valve job, etc.

I have to get headers anyway because...

When I bought the car the guy had dropped the 1994 302/T5 combo in using the 6 cyl k member but he didn't do it quite right and so he had to cut the BBK long tubes to fit around the steering shaft. I am putting in a V8 k member and a 93 spec T5z so I'll have ot get new headers anyway.

Don

Just so you know, Hedman long tube headers for a Mustang will NOT fit GT40P heads, unless you want to SMASH the CRAP out of the #7 primary tube. The #7 tube turns toward the rear of the car too quickly, and it contacts the spark plug tip.

I hope this keeps someone from having to un-install their freakin' engine, only to find out that the SECOND header you install doesn't work.

Later,
Mike.

okay i have to chime in.i paid 100 dollars for my P heads.I had them ported/polished,exhaust bump removed and a 30 degree backcut on the valves.im running 8.40s on motor with a stock 1995 cam.on the jug,its running 7.37's with a 200 shot.these can be had from pick and pull on half priced day for dirt cheap!the exhaust situation is different depending on who you talk to.I personally use the longtube headers from MAC.i do not have any smashed tubesor real issues with fitment.i use a 19 mm wrench to to loosen or install most of the spark plugs(ngk tr6).use the msd plug wires because they have bendable boots. these are the most budget friendly and power per buck head you can buy.HANDS DOWN!

The Ps are on. I ended up using FRPP shorties. I suppose I'll lose a little power, but I think I'll still be at least 300 at the wheels.

I have a complete 2000 Exploder engine in my 90 LX, I got the engine at a local salvage yard and went through it when I bought it for my own piece of mind. The only upgrades I did were an FRPP E303 cam and Crane spring upgrade and I did about 6 or 7 hours clean up on the heads. I used 24# injectors, MAC 1 5/8 inch LT's, swapped out the Explorer 65mm tb for a FRPP 65mm unit and a 73mm C&L meter. I did have to swap 2 plug boots for 90 degree Chevy style plug boots, but no other issues. With 4.10's and a 235/60-15 MT ET Radial and a T5 I went a best of 12.78@106. The car is full weight, about 3200 (no A/C, I live in Canada, don't need it ;-)) and I'm no factory lightweight myself. I was really impressed. I think there is more there if I spent more time at the track. I didn't get it to the dyno yet but I figured it made the 260-275 most guys get to the wheels. I've read some of the posts on these guys that make 300 to the wheels, and it would be just as well to go buy a set of aftermarket heads with the money and time they have invested in upgraded under cut valves and time or cost invested in professional porting and polishing, titanium valvetrain components. If you want to make good solid power and torque for reasonable money, the P's are a great option, but if you want to make 300 RWHP, unless you're in it for bragging rights, just buy something off the shelf because once you factor in the cost of everything I mentioned above, yu'll be well into the cost of a set of aftermarket heads.

Hey Skinney! Glad to see you made it over. The wagon looks killer man. That time is pretty respectable for the weight. I'm gonna turbo my 200 six z7, and I'm hoping to get into the low 12's, mid 11's myself. This is gonna be a straight up street car, with trips down the track just to guage the performance of The addition of a turbo.It may be a little easier for me because of the weight advantage though. Keep up the good work!