k-member spacers

Here's a simple mod to gain some extra hood clearance. It also corrects engine geometry on the bigblock cars.

that looks like alot of work. what did you do? cut some subframe connectors in half and weld them up?

No. The spacers are made out of 2" square tube.

I chose to weld my spacers in...I don't plan on returning this car to stock, but they don't have to be welded.

what does your rear mounts look like on the k-member and trany ?

Rear k-member mount is also a piece of 2" square tube...I'll take a few pics this week. The stock trans mount will work, however, I'm doing a 460 c4 combo, so I may have to alter mine slightly. I'm hoping that I can keep this particular combination under the stock hood. I'm only using a torker 2 intake. Most other intakes would require the use of a cowl hood or a scoop.

Stymees'mont wrote:

what does your rear mounts look like on the k-member and trany ?

Here is what the rear k-member spacers look like.

im planning on doing this same mod to my mont for the windsor to try and keep my stock flat hood.ill keep this thread handy.

ybuy4n wrote:

im planning on doing this same mod to my mont for the windsor to try and keep my stock flat hood.ill keep this thread handy.

Quite honestly... It's the only way to get a decent intake to work under a stock hood. Also, you don't have to drop the entire k-member out to do the mod. Sometimes it's easier to do one side at a time to make sure everything lines up correctly. What I do is fit one side at a time, make sure everything lines up and tighten the bolts.Then weld if you choose to do so.
Attatched are a few pics of me playing around with carb spacers. It's not 100% accurate because of the void between the center of the hood bracing. I might be able to get away with a 1" spacer and a nitrous plate with a drop base air cleaner if I choose.

no spacer



1" spacer



1 1/2" spacer

your car is going to be a wicked ride once you have all the bugs sorted out.I was looking over your broom handle/stick pictures;the hood has a slight bow in it for some more clearance.Imshowing your referance photos to my fab guy to give him an idea on exactly what i want done.A Windsor with the 2" spacers and a set of solid motor mounts SHOULD clear enough to keep my stock flattie.Im also looking at doing a dual plane intake;because after extensive reading to determine whether i should do that or the single plane,ive found that the only real gain is above 6500 rpm's.The minimal amount of time that i would be visiting that range would be not be worth the money spent.Thanks for the very helpful and informative post.I would have either spent the extra money on a cowl hood(dont want),or cut an unsightly hole in the hood.I really enjoy the semi stock appearance that my car has retained for now.If you make any more progress on your car,please post pics.thanks , karl.
<---------impatiently waiting for more pics!

Karl, I've been posting pics of my header build here.....
https://fairmont302.aforumfree.com/photo-album-f4/my-1980-z7-turbo-t49-15.htm

karl do a ported weiand stealth intake. lots of torque, you will like it.

[/quote]I really enjoy the semi stock appearance that my car has retained for now.[/quote]

Karl, I couldn't agree more. I've since ditched my centerlines in favor of painted steel wheels, and possibly dog dish hubcaps...not sure about the hubcaps yet.

i like my 80's hot rod look. i just need a mullet to look right while racing it.

How do those spacers affect the handling of the car? I'm sure that you aren't all that concerned, since it's probably more of a straight line machine, but I can't help but think that it would have the geometry all sorts of screwed up.

I always wanted to get a set of plain, old style (four really big spokes), steel wheels in 15 or 16x7 or 8. I'd have to make sure the middle was right so that the factory dog dishes would still fit.

Later,
Mike.

Aug wrote:

How do those spacers affect the handling of the car? I'm sure that you aren't all that concerned, since it's probably more of a straight line machine, but I can't help but think that it would have the geometry all sorts of screwed up.

Contrary to what most people think, the spacers actually correct driveling angularity in a bigblock car. They also correct the center of gravity by allowing the engine to sit lower in the engine bay, actually improving handling....sure it's going to be a straight line performer, but I don't care for school bus like handling either. Here's a link where I got the idea from. http://bigblockfox.com/
By using the spacers, most people can get away with running a stock hood or a small scoop, depending on the intake they choose.